Pregnant perennials

As I was editing Ann Tice's article on reseeding annuals for Sunday's column, I got to thinking about some of the perennials I grow that also like to spread themselves around a bit. The only one on my list that comes near to what I would call 'invasive' is the brunnera. But that could just be because its baby-blue flowers captivate me every spring and I'm loath to pull any of them out!

Some favorites:


Rose campion (Lychnis coronaria)
When I first planted this biennial (or short-lived perennial), it looked a bit 'sparse' to my eye. But over the years as it's sown itself among my other perennials, it's grown on me. The flowers are small, but a knockout magenta color that is really set off by the fuzzy, silvery foliage. Two-three feet tall. Likes full sun and soil on the dry side, but not fussy.



Veronica 'Waterperry'
Unlike most veronicas, 'Waterperry' is a low-growing creeper (only an inch or so high in my garden). It forms tiny lavender-blue flowers from late April into May and the shiny foliage is evergreen. It is filling in under its bedfellows and around the pavers in my paths. I keep wondering if I should pull it, but I don't. Full to part sun.



Brunnera macrophylla
There are new varieties around that have variegated or silver foliage, but I grow the original. I think the dark green foliage sets off the dainty, pale-blue flowers to their best advantage. After those flowers fade (around Memorial Day) the leaves get larger, more puckered and grow heart-shaped, forming a large clump. They can mug out in summer. Just cut them back and fresh new growth will quickly fill in. Best in shade, but will tolerate some sun if kept moist. Twelve-18 inches tall and wide.



Geranium pratense 'striatum'
I originally started this geranium from seed as 'Splish Splash,' which was supposed to have flecks of lavender on its white petals. Only one of six plants came true from seed, but the others (solid blues and whites) were hardy and lovely in their own right. They are the ones that have reseeded around my garden. Grows 18-24 inches high and does well in sun or part shade.





European wild ginger (Asarum europaeum)
I love this low-growing evergreen groundcover. Its heart-shaped, shiny dark green leaves seem impervious to slugs or disease. Asarum does best in shade, but tolerates some sun if kept well watered. Otherwise it will brown.





Lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis)
Another plant that delights me. After a rain or even with the morning dew, its fuzzy leaves capture tiny water droplets that glimmer like diamonds. The foliage is a soft gray-green and scalloped. Clusters of tiny chartreuse flowers are held above the foliage in late spring and early summer. Can brown out later in the season. Cut it to the ground and it will quickly recover -- but, of course, you won't get as many babies. Grow in full to part sun. (That's caryopteris on the right.)



False indigo (Baptisia australis)
A stately plant with gorgeous blue flowers on dense, bushy mounds of soft blue-green foliage. Blooms mid to late spring. If you don't deadhead it and allow the black seed pods to form, they will remain attractive well into winter and also produce offspring. Very long-lived. Full sun to part shade. Three-four feet tall.





Columbine (Aquilegia 'McKana Hybrids')
These began as three parent plants six or seven years ago. The parents have all died (not wild about my heavy soil), but seedlings made their way to areas where they are happier. Mine are mostly pinks and purples now, but this variety comes in a range of pastel colors. Plants grow 24-30 inches tall and prefer part shade.



Caryopteris
I have two varieties of bluebeard. One, 'Worcester Gold,' has chartreuse foliage and I like it best. The other one, whose name I can no longer remember, has blue-green foliage. Both are producing lavender-blue tufts of flowers now, at a time when my garden needs some color. They prefer full sun and well-drained soil. My oldest original plant is about six years old. I planted two at the same time and the other succumbed within a couple of years. Treat caryopteris as a 'die back' plant, but don't cut it back in spring until bud break.