Gibble, gabble gobble

It's August. (Well, OK, technically it won't be August for another 12 hours, but still...)

I'm hot.

I'm irritable.

I haven't set foot in the garden for over a week. (The zucchini must be as big as baseball bats by now.) And even from the kitchen window I can tell that there is lots of other work to be done.

But I'm just not in the mood.

This is always the worst gardening month for me. The excitement of spring planting and summer's abundant bloom has faded. And so has my garden. (Except for all that red that I wrote about last week...) Sure I could go out at 5 a.m. and deadhead and cut plants back to reinvigorate them, but honestly, I just don't care right now.

The problem is that I know I WILL care in a few of weeks when the weather (and my schedule) cools down a bit. And if I don't do something now, the garden may be unsalvageable by then.

Oh...Sorry...I'm whining again.


Let's talk about something pleasant. Like what I'm going to do with all that zucchini. (The largest ones will go to the compost pile, of course.) I've already made casseroles and spaghetti sauce, used it in salads and baked bread, so I was browsing allrecipes.com for some ideas and ran across a recipe for cobbler. Yes, cobbler! It's supposed to taste like apple cobbler. And the fact that it uses EIGHT CUPS of zucchini at a pop is a definite plus.

If you try it before I do, please let me know what you think.

Zucchini Cobbler

* 8 cups peeled, chopped zucchini with seeds removed
* 2/3 cup lemon juice
* 1 cup white sugar
* 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
* 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

* 4 cups all-purpose flour
* 2 cups white sugar
* 1 1/2 cups butter, chilled

* 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon


DIRECTIONS
1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook and stir zucchini and lemon juice until zucchini is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in 1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and nutmeg and cook one minute more. Remove from heat and set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Grease a 10x15 inch baking dish. In a large bowl, combine flour and 2 cups sugar. Cut in butter with pastry blender or two knives until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir 1/2 cup of butter mixture into zucchini mixture. Press half of remaining butter mixture into bottom of prepared pan. Spread zucchini mixture over top of crust, and sprinkle remaining butter mixture over zucchini. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon cinnamon.
3. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until top is golden. Serve warm with ice cream or cold.

Change can be good...or not

I was hacking through the jungle underbrush last night (OK, it was really just overgrown geraniums and lady's mantle, but with all the rain we've had this spring and summer, parts of the garden are starting to resemble South America), when I noticed that I have way too much red in my garden this year.

It was an experiment. We painted our front and back doors red last year and I thought I'd 'coordinate' my house and yard this season.

Mistake.

Oh, I guess it looks fine. It's just that I don't really like red - at least not in the garden. It's just too blaring. In the garden I want soft. Quiet. Serene. I want pink and white and purple.

So why did I change what had 'worked' for me for years? Pressure. And hype. I guess I just read too many garden design articles and too many plant catalogs touting the virtues of drama and bold beauty.

At least most of those red plants are annuals and I can easily go back to pink ones next spring, lesson learned. The red Knockout rose will get switched with the pink Baby Blanket that tends to get lost out in the far border anyway.

All will once again be right in my world.

At least until the next issue of Fine Gardening arrives in my mailbox...

They're heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer

Speaking of Japanese beetles (see the comments on 'Container catastrophe', below). Yes, they have arrived.

A University of Illinois Extension press release that was sent out this morning explains where they came from, why we all hate them and what to do about it:

Only a few years ago, Japanese beetles were something talked about as a potential problem in the future. Now, they are present in northern Illinois in field crops and on landscape plants. "Japanese beetles are one of the exotic insects that have made their way into the United States and wreak havoc due to the lack of a natural predator," says David Robson, University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator." And unlike most insects, both the adult and larval stages can cause major injury."

Adult Japanese beetles are between 1/4 and 1/2 inch long. They're easily identified because of their metallic green body with coppery wings. On either side of the wings are five tufts of white hairs. The larval stage is one of the three major grubs that feed on turfgrass, though not yet in the numbers as the annual white grub from the June beetle or masked chafer. Beetles mate in June, and the female lays eggs in early July. Eggs hatch out in August, and grubs continue to feed and grow until they pupate in April or May. Most Japanese beetles start emerging from the ground in late May. There is only one generation per year, but the adult stage can be present until early fall.

Adult Japanese beetles are voracious feeders, especially on sunny days, and seemingly indiscriminate. Like most insects, they have their favorite food but will feed on anything present. It was initially thought that beetles would feed for only a month or so, following a similar life cycle as June bugs. However, reports indicate Japanese beetles feeding into September, though numbers were drastically reduced.

"Roses, grape vines and linden trees seem to be the favorites in Illinois," says Robson. "The Japanese beetles do not discriminate-all types of roses and lindens are fair game, even the supposedly insect- and disease-proof shrub roses. You can find the insects on viburnums, climbing hydrangeas, Shasta daisies, daylilies, porcelain vine and some fruit trees."

Generally, the beetle feeds on the tender upper leaf tissue between the veins, creating a skeletonized look to the leaf. In many cases, what's left turns brown, giving the plants a scorched appearance. Robson says large holes can be munched out of flowers, and occasionally you will find damage to fruits and vegetables, though vegetables tend to be one of the last things the beetles will eat. Most summer Illinois fruits, such as apples, peaches and pears, have a skin that is harder for beetles to digest.

Control is difficult. Beetles may fly miles from where they emerge. Complicating matters is the fact that in early July the creatures will take flight when disturbed; as they mature, they become easier to pick off or knock off the plants.

Adults can be controlled by knocking into containers of hot, soapy water. These efforts will probably need to be repeated daily for several weeks. Start as soon as possible. Netting can be used to cover some prized plants, but make sure there are no beetles under the net when you apply it. Japanese beetle traps have shown effectiveness, though reports indicate that they actually attract more beetles into the yard that may not be caught by the traps. The current recommendation is to not use traps at all, or to place them at least a city block or more from your yard.

There are several insecticides that can be used as knockdown sprays. The insecticide carbaryl, often sold as Sevin, provides some of the best control. More than likely, you will have to repeat applications every five to seven days. Other products include acephate (Orthene) and cyfluthrin (Tempo). Imidacloprid (Merit) is often sold as Japanese beetle control, but it is a systemic, which means it must be applied early in the season, usually early May, to allow the plant to absorb it. Be sure to read and follow directions, locating "Japanese Beetle" control on the label. Grubs can be controlled with imidacloprid (Merit) or Milky Spore disease, a bacterial toxin that will only have an effect on the Japanese beetle grub.

Above all, maintain the health of the plant. Plants damaged during the summer are more likely to suffer from reduced leaf surface that reduces sugar production. Plants may grow less and have a more difficult time recovering from stress conditions such as drought, early frosts, diseases and other insect attacks. Plants will often recover and appear fine next year, living on stored food reserves. But, repeated defoliation in early summer will weaken many trees, shrubs and vines. Keep plants watered and properly fertilized.

You heard it here first

I just received an email from Park Seed. They will be introducing more than 50 new plants this fall. Below is a foretaste. You'll have to sort through the hype yourself. This is straight from the press release.


Echinacea Meringue (Echinacea purpurea 'Meringue') Each of these charming white-and-primrose blooms begins as a flat daisy, then grows upward, creating a giant gumdrop of a flower. One of the renowned Cone-fections series from Holland, Meringue is a compact plant with short, strong stems and an abundance of blooms. Perfect in front of taller Echinacea, or on its own in containers, it is upright and tidy. Z 3-9; midsummer/early fall; sun; H: 15-18", W: 15-18"





Candy Lipstick Daylily (Hemerocallis 'Candy Lipstick') Gorgeous shades of rose, pink, and lilac combine on these unusual blooms to make this Daylily really glow. The upper petals are a rich rosy-purple with a creamy stripe down the center, while the lower petals are a contrasting pink. They appear on long, slender stems of reddish-purple on semi-evergreen plants that flower very heavily. It is unbeatable for dramatic color in the border, container, or mass planting. Z 3-9; midsummer; sun/part shade; H: 24", W: 20"




Peony Singing in the Rain (Paeonia x 'Singing in the Rain') Each flowering stem on this marvelous Itoh Hybrid bears several side-shoots laden with blooms, making it the heaviest-flowering Peony we've ever grown. The flowers are semi-double, 6 inches wide, and a splendid combination of soft creamy yellow and salmon peach, with a faint, sweet scent. Best of all, heavy rain won't faze this Peony, which simply covers itself in pink buds before bursting into multi-colored pastel bloom. A showpiece in any setting, it is certain to be your favorite cut flower as well as a timeless garden performer. Z 4-8; late spring/early summer; sun/part shade; H: 36-40"; W: 36"



Japanese Iris Lace Ruff (Iris ensata 'Lace Ruff') Punctuate the Iris garden with this nearly white beauty, its soft lavender styles and violet veins accentuating the snowy petals. Very elegantly held, with abundant ruffles and a beautiful form, Lace Ruff is a splendid addition to the multicolored border. Very easy to grow. Z 4-9; early-/midsummer; sun/part shade; H: 24", W: 18'






Green Wave Tulip (Tulipa 'Green Wave') This exciting new Parrot looks quite ordinary at first. The green buds open to unsurprisingly green blooms, their petals twisted and frizzy. But then, after a few days, the tips of the petals begin to show traces of pink. In no time, the entire flower is a mass of bright pink and soft cream, the green remaining only in the central stripe. Measuring at least 6 inches wide, these are stunning cut flowers, appearing late in Tulip season and ending your spring bulb display with a flourish. Z 3-8; mid-/late spring; sun/part shade; H 20-24"; W: 12"




Grand Perfection Tulip (Tulipa 'Grand Perfection') Very full and beautifully sculptured, these Single Early combine clear yellow to pure white with bright red feathering on 14- to 16-inch stems. Z 3-8; early/mid-spring; sun/part shade; H: 14-16", W: 8-10"









Coral Bells 'Mahogany' PPAF (Heuchera 'Mahogany') Here's a nice change of pace - the red tones actually get brighter as the weather warms up. In spring, rich mahogany-purple leaves unfurl, ruffled and very dense on nicely mounding plants. By summer, they have turned a brighter shade of red, and they keep this color through winter in wild and warm climates. Very easy, even in hot, humid areas. Z 4-9; sun/part shade; H: 8", W: 16"





Hibiscus Boule de Feu (Hibiscus syriacus 'Boule de Feu') A splendid heirloom variety with giant double blooms of raspberry-purple tinged with maroon in the center. Upright, very well-branched plants are highly tolerant of heat and humidity. These flowers look like enormous carnations, and a fully-blooming plant is an unforgettably beautiful sight. Z 5-9; midsummer/autumn; sun; H: 8-12', W: 10'






Heucherella Alabama Sunrise (H. villosa 'Alabama Sunrise') Lovely from spring 'til frost, this vigorous, mounding plant begins the year with bright gold foliage veined in red. In mid- to late summer, the gold deepens to green, but the rich markings remain. And in autumn, the leaves blaze orange and pink. Very easy to grow, it is topped by small white blooms on 20-inch stems and stands up beautifully to heat and humidity. A carefree joy for any shady spot. Z 4-9; late spring; part/full shade; H: 12", W: 20"



Blanket Flower Frenzy (Gaillardia 'Commotion' TM Frenzy) Here it is - the new star of your sunny border, best containers, and even those hard-to-plant dry, poor soil areas of the landscape. Frenzy is the most exciting new Blanket Flower to come along in many a year, with a petal count so high it looks double-flowered. Fluted petals are burgundy at the base, shading into rich red and then blazing yellow at the merry tips. Later in the very long bloom season, the flowers are more orange-toned than red, creating a lovely multi-colored look in the garden or vase. Cut them back as they pass and the blooms will just keep coming. Asking nothing beyond an annual spring trim, this nearly mounded plant will wow everyone who sees it. Very highly recommended. Z 5-10; late spring/mid fall; sun; H: 18-24", W: 24"


Penstemon 'Pink Dawn' (Penstemon digitalis 'Pink Dawn') A dwarf version of the beloved native Foxglove Beardtongue, this charming mini has all the appeal of its larger cousins. Butterflies and hummingbirds love its tubular white-tipped pink blooms, which are excellent for cutting. Insects and other pests leave the plant alone, so that it thrives in any moist, well-drained soil. Enjoy it up close in containers as well as in the border and accent plantings. Z 3-8; spring/early summer; sun; H: 18-24", W: 15-18"




Bugbane 'Chocoholic' PPAF (Cimicifuga 'Chocoholic') Have you discovered this fascinating shade perennial yet? This is a very compact, dark-leaved version of Bugbane, just right for today's smaller gardens. The large, attractive foliage is deep burgundy-purple, held well below the fragrant, graceful bottlebrush blooms. These flowers - irresistible to butterflies - open an intense shade of mauve, lightening as they mature. Z 4-8; midsummer/early fall; part shade; H: 24-36", W: 18-24"





Coral Bells 'Southern Comfort' PPAF (Heuchera 'Southern Comfort') Watching these giant leaves subtly shift from spiced peach in spring to coppery in summer and amber in autumn is half the fun of growing this lovely new Coral Bell. Topped with creamy-white blooms on 22-inch stems for several weeks, it never fails to surprise and delight with its intense colors and lushly mounded habit Z 4-9; late spring; sun/part shade; H: 14". W: 24"





Peony 'First Arrival' (Paeonia 'First Arrival') Every garden deserves one Itoh Peony - the incredible cross of garden and tree peonies that produce huge blooms on vigorous, very long-lived plants. This is one of the finest of all, with massive 6- to 8-inch semi-double to fully double blooms, very fragrant, boasting lavender-pink shades on 2-foot stems. A treasure for cutting or garden enjoyment, it blooms for decades and is so easy to care for. Z 4-8. late spring/early summer; full sun/part shade; H: 10", W:12"

Container catastrophe

I came out the door on my way to work this morning, five minutes late, only to discover that someone or something had totally decimated the container planting next to the front door. Plants lay all over the porch and those that had managed to hang on by their roots were covered in soil from the huge holes dug throughout the urn.

Needless to say, I was not a happy camper.

I tucked everything back into place and watered it in well, but really, I'm not holding out much hope. One plant in particular, a sweet potato vine, literally had every speck of soil removed from its roots.

Now 20 minutes late for work, I was ready to shoot any critter that crossed my path on the way to the car - guilty or not. Fortunately, I saw none. (OK, I don't really carry a gun in my girdle, but I might start.)

I've never had this problem before, so I'm flabbergasted. What would do this? The planter's about two feet tall. Would it be a squirrel?

I did see a ground squirrel recently. That's a new addition to the garden. I had one about 15 years ago that dug up several in-ground plantings, but my husband and I eventually managed to transported him out of the area under a witness protection plan. (ie: He was witness to some pretty bizarre behavior on the part of my husband and me. Let's just say it involved a downspout, a paper bag and a wild car ride to freedom.)

Hosta Virus X

I haven't heard much about Hosta Virus X this year, so it's been on the back burner of my mind. At least it WAS until I discovered that a 'Sum and Substance' in the far border is infected. (I understand that 'Sum and Substance' is one of the most commonly affected varieties. Others include 'Gold Standard' and 'Striptease.')

The plant is three years old and there was no indication of a problem until the telltale mottling appeared just recently. That surprised me. I'm careful to buy hostas from reputable nurseries and know what signs to look for. But I didn't realize that I could buy an apparently healthy plant only to have the virus materialize so much later. Now I know...

I understand that the American Hosta Society is currently working on a Hosta Virus X research project with the University of Minnesota. They hope "to clarify methods of transmission and understand the dynamics of the Hosta Virus X spread..."

Sounds like a plan.

But for now, here are some things that we gardeners can do to protect our existing hostas -- and those of our fellow gardeners -- courtesy of davesgarden.com:

• Clean your tools - Good plant hygiene goes a long way in keeping Hosta Virus X (HVX) out of your garden. Leave your hosta leaves on the plant and don't cut the scapes. If you must cut or divide a plant, sanitize your tools after use. In her Fine Gardening article, Bonnie Blanchette suggests using a 10 percent bleach solution on tools after working on each plant.

• Throw out infected plants - Remove any infected plants, let them dry out and die, and then put them straight in the garbage. Disinfect your tools and hands before working with any other hosta. Wait a few weeks until any leftover roots in the soil have dried up and died before you replant a hosta in the same location.

• Buy from reputable sources - If possible, only buy from specialty hosta growers or at least a high-end nursery. Don't be afraid to ask them about their knowledge of HVX. Are they knowledgeable and aware of the virus or are their answers vague and uncertain? Buy from big-box retailers at your own risk! While discount prices might be attractive, think of how much money you might spend replacing your entire collection.

• Avoid trades - You might consider halting hosta trading until a later date. If you know your "tradee," discuss the HVX threat before you proceed. Talk over details such as how long you or they have had the plant, what kind of plant hygiene you practice, etc.

• Monitor your plants - Keep an eye on your hosta plants even if you have had them for a few years. Monitoring them in this fashion will help you look for other symptoms of disease such as foliar nematodes. Tony Avent from Plant Delights Nursery reminds us, "Foliar nematodes on hosta are a far worse problem than [the] virus will ever be." One reason to fear foliar nematodes is that the parasites can spread to other hosta within a six-foot range of an infected plant.

• Spread the word and stay informed - If you see infected plants at any nursery - big-box or high-end - notify the manager and inform your gardening friends. Ignorance and apathy enable the spread of the virus.

There has been some chatter on the Internet about "immune plants," but Hosta Library lists this as a myth. Early studies showed some hosta were more difficult to infect than others were. Since that time, some of the "immune" varieties have become infected.

Expectations

Did you know that there are actually people in this world who don't care one whit about gardening?

Yes, I know... It's difficult to believe, but it is true. I experienced it last weekend.

We had house guests and, except for one perfunctory 'That's pretty,' no one expressed any interest in my garden what so ever. Not a single, 'Oh, that's gorgeous. What is it?" or "My, what a beautiful color!" Not even the usual, 'Looks like a lot of work to me...'

I'm speechless as I write this (Is that possible?), just rehashing the thing in my mind.

Personally, I can't pass a window without taking notice of what's growing outside it. I might miss the face of a friend who passed me on the street, but I can tell you exactly what's growing in the planter outside the bank (Cordyline australis 'Pink Stripe,'' 'Rose' wave petunias and tricolor sweet potato vine). I've even been known to miss a turn-off on the Interstate because I'm looking at the wildflowers growing next to the pavement.

I know that everyone is different and has different likes and dislikes. I just can't imagine seeing a flower and not SEEING it -- or not feeling it with your emotions instead of just your fingers.

Maybe I'm overreacting.

Or maybe my feelings, or my ego, just got bruised.

I am letting it all go now.

1...2...3......gone.